Ingredients in the spotlight: Octocrylene

January 22, 2024. Octocrylene (CAS 6197-30-4) is an organic UV filter used in cosmetic products to protect both consumers and formulations from UV radiation.

Octocrylene is allowed for use in cosmetics in the EU as a UV filter (Annex VI to the EU Cosmetics Regulation) up to a maximum concentration of 9% in propellant sprays and up to 10% in other products. These are the latest restrictions introduced in 2022 following the evaluation of the substance by the SCCS for its potential endocrine-disrupting properties. The new restrictions started applying on January 28, 2023, for new products, and on July 28, 2023, for products already on the market.

On the other hand, in the UK, Octocrylene can be used as a UV filter up to 10% (as acid).

France calls for further regulatory measures on Octocrylene

France intends to submit a restriction proposal on Octocrylene in Annex XVII to REACH to address the environmental concerns linked to the substance. Thus, they launched a call for evidence to collect information on the uses of Octocrylene, its impacts on the environment, alternatives, and costs. The call for evidence lasted from November 15, 2023, until January 10, 2024.

According to the Anses (Agence nationale de sécurité sanitaire de l’alimentation, de l’environnement et du travail in France), Octocrylene poses some risks to acquatic environnement, including corals. In particular, the hazard comes from the release of this substance from bathing and washing of people wearing sunscreens. Additionally, Octocrylene might be harmful to drinking water consumers due to groundwater contamination.

While the EU Cosmetics Regulation tackles the safety of users under normal and foreseeable conditions, REACH also covers environmental issues. Therefore, a restriction in Annex XVII to REACH is the most appropriate way to manage environmental risks linked to substances used in cosmetics.

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